Author Archives: Thelma Anderson
Author Archives: Thelma Anderson
If you want to race go karts successfully you will need to choose the right go kart frame for your particular situation. And if you’re building your own, you’ll also need a high quality set of go kart frame plans. Choosing the wrong frame can lead to less control and more accidents on the track. Learn what makes a frame acceptable and how to avoid frames that will cause nothing but trouble.
A go kart frame, also called a chassis, is a very important component of a fast racing go kart. With a solid design it can help keep your tires glued to the track in tight corners when racing at break-neck speeds, and can prevent your car from spinning out of control while precisely maneuvering through razor sharp turns.
A go kart frame or chassis is attached to the axles and holds the body and motor of a vehicle. If you have ever seen a house being built you will know that the framing comes first. The walls, roof, doors, and everything else are attached to the framing. The go kart frame supports the entire structure and if it is weak the whole structure is weak. A strong go kart frame is needed to provide a solid vehicle that can withstand the strains that are placed on it when racing rough courses.
Go kart frames are welded together by torsion bars. Shorter bars make for stiffer frames while longer bars produce flexible frames. In the early days of karting frames were usually stiff, and without sufficient flexibility they broke down easily. Maneuvering well, especially through tight turns, requires a well-built and strong frame. A weaker go kart frame composed of cheaper parts can drift and slide through turns at any given moment and can also flip over entirely depending on the conditions. When you’re trying to hold your line the last thing you want is for your go kart to start sliding out of control.
One of the most important aspects of a sturdy go kart frame is the distance, or width, between the rear rails. Narrow widths, in the 24-inch range, will have less traction, especially through sharp turns. Wider widths, up to about 30 inches, have greater track bite which will allow you to take turns faster without losing traction. Wider rails provide the extra stability needed to remain in control instead of losing control.
Choosing the right go kart frame is very important, but there’s more to it than just that. A frame that is great on one go kart track may be poor on another. Tracks are usually composed of dirt, concrete, or asphalt, but a chassis that works well on dirt may not work well on asphalt. Typically, a dirt track will require a chassis with wide back rails and narrow front rails while concrete and asphalt will be just the opposite, requiring wide fronts and narrow backs.
Additionally, there are many governing bodies in the sport of go karts and each body has their own unique set of rules. Get the information you need from the professionals at the track where you plan on racing. If you intend to race go karts on asphalt visit the nearest track and ask the owners where to find the best go kart frame. Without having the right information you can easily end up buying a go kart that you won’t be able to race.
High traction tires are a vital component if you want your frame to last any appreciable length of time when kart racing. Without proper tire traction the chassis will rattle, which can eventually lead to complete failure. Good traction adds stability to the vehicle which can give you added control on the track and a longer frame life.
Go kart frames take a considerable amount of punishment due to many factors that include hitting walls, racing over bumps on the track, or making constant sharp punishing turns. Experts usually recommend a yearly frame replacement although this depends a lot on the stiffness of the frame, how often you race, tire traction, what type of track you race on, and other factors. Racing with high traction tires, a stiff frame, and a high-horsepower engine will surely cause your frame to break sooner rather than later. And running your go kart with low traction tires will put a lot of extra stress on your chassis that will cut its life short. Get the right go kart frame for your specific track and you will have much greater racing success.
A new modern fireplace is a wonderful addition to any room.
Whether you are looking to add a majestic fireplace to a room or a cozy location where you can relax and warm up next to a fire, an electric fireplace may be the ideal solution for you.
Additionally, electric fireplaces are made to be used year round.
On a warm evening you can simply turn on the flame, without the heat, so you can enjoy the glow of the fire while relaxing after long day.
However, if the evening temperature cool off, turn on the heat option to add warmth to you room.
These heat controls can produce enough to either warm up you toes or heat up a 400 square foot area to a comfortable temperature, and since electric fireplaces require no venting you can add your fireplace to tricky areas, such as basements and dens.
Modern Fireplaces provide customers with both the feel and warmth of a real fireplace, but offer many more benefits.
With the variety of styles that these fireplaces come in you are able to create either a feel of a beautiful traditional fireplace or add a sleek stylish design of a Euro-modern fireplace.
Some are wall-mounted. This kind of fireplaces are becoming popular. If you are thinking about the best wall mount electric fireplace for your comfy zone you need to know about the things to be considered before buying.
Electric fireplaces offer a contemporary or traditional style to any home.
These fireplaces mimic a coal, wood or natural gas burning fireplace, and can be used in place of a conventional fireplace.
Additionally, with realistic fire technology these units can offer you an incredible fireplace surrounding with or without heat.
Additional to the realist beauty of a fireplace, an electric fireplace offers you the convenience and portability of any household appliance.
Electric fireplaces are designed to handle any location that may be unreachable by a traditional fireplace.
Since electric fireplace require no venting you can easily add them to any basement or den.
Euro-modern electric fireplaces use angular lines and unique shapes to add style to any modern setting or location.
The features included in this style may include, frosted glass beads as opposed to logs or adjustable fire shades in pink, blue and red.
The euro-modern style electric fireplace is a unique style that can benefit your home.
Traditional electric fireplaces use mimic materials to enhance the style of these fireplaces.
By using mimic wood or coal, these fireplaces offer a comforting feel to a basement, den or living room.
Additionally, these units can be free standing wood stoves or fireplace inserts to customize any style.
Electric fireplaces offer high quality craftsmanship and superior flame technology, but they offer many other features to promote safety, convenience, style and comfort.
(1) remote control and wall thermostats to turn on/off, adjust heat or flame strength and set on/off timers from anywhere in the room,
(2) glass door kits that are cool to the touch and overheat protection so you can maintain a comfort in the safety of your system,
(3) mantels and surroundings in stone, hardwood or custom installations, that will customize your style for your room, and
(4) the fireplaces themselves are available in stainless steel, black, brass, chrome, white, or cast iron, to match your current home decor.
The only time I visibly squealed in a store in public was a few months ago. I was standing in the middle of Big Lots admiring their fireplaces when I noticed that one said “Electric Media Fireplace Center”. I didn’t know that it existed until then or that you could even have a TV close to heat.
I spend a lot of the winter months sitting close to a space heater. Then I turn it off and go about my business until I get cold again. I figure I could at least be watching TV during this time. Some manufacturers do say that putting electronics on top may be a problem even though it’s made for a TV. I also like that the glass is supposed to stay cool on the fireplace because I accidentally burned my hand on the glass of a gas fireplace though. The biggest downside I can see is that the flame might look a little bit “cheesy” or fake. However, it has to be better looking than that space heater I’ve been sitting in front of.
I was so excited as to be embarrassed in public just because it solves multiple problems. I really want some kind of a fireplace to lay in front of in the winter like I was used to growing up but I live in an apartment and they usually aren’t too keen on tenants building in fireplaces. However, I would also have competing focal points on one wall because there’s only one spot to put my TV. Plus, I want my apartment to have a little bit of detail and character to it and this gives the feeling of added architecture.
I decided to wait and shop online. I also wanted to see if they would go on clearance in the summer. I wasn’t thrilled with the cheap fake oak versions at Big Lots and wanted something with more storage. It seems like in the summer months at least at Amazon it’s about 30-40% off of what it was when I checked in the winter just in general. There are also more styles and price points to choose from.
Remember that you’ll need room for your components too. This might be open bookshelves or closed doors. You also need a shelf between the TV and the fireplace to hold DVD players.
Always check the weight requirements and how deep it is to ensure that your TV will fit. Remember that you’re going to need space for other components too. This is why I gravitate more towards the expensive entertainment set look. I find that it looks more like a built in when it has bookshelves on either side of it.
A pretty inexpensive brand seems to be Stone gate. You can find many versions for under $300. Check the BTUs because this probably won’t heat a whole house. The descriptions tell you how many square feet it can heat. It’s usually around 400 square feet. If you like the idea of zone heating or you’re just in one room throughout the day this saves you the cost of heating the entire house. I mostly just want it because I’m cold all of the time. So whether you have a few hundred to spend or a thousand there are many options to choose from. I find that the more oversize it is the more it will feel like a built-in. Narrow looks are great for solid black or espresso pieces where you want a pretty modern look. Corner units will usually be a little bit cheaper too.
Sure, most people have the same black or silver flat screen TV and the same gaming consoles. That doesn’t mean that your room has to feel overly modern. I love how this takes the same TV that everyone has and can give it a French Country or farmhouse vibe. You can always stick with black finishes and smoked glass shelves to keep it sleek and contemporary. For the French style consider something like an Antebellum style with a shutter type of doors and a distressed painted finish or weathered wood.
A big reason that I skipped the Big Lots purchase was that it looked more like a portable one than a built in. The SEI Cartwright line is successful at this with more of a tile or faux slate look. This works well for a country theme but the neutral colors make it suitable for any type of theme.
You might want a little bit more versatility. I recommend this style if you aren’t a big TV watcher or if you don’t have a formal living room for entertaining. When guests are over you can just press a button and the TV basically disappears. I watch too much TV for the added expense to be worth it.
So is this going to be a big energy hog? Some descriptions say that it isn’t going to use any more than a coffee maker.
I also love this look because it’s portable. That means that while it might be part of my living room now, someday I might use it in a bedroom if I live in a house with a “real” fireplace. If you’re short on space like me or just hate how modern your TV is then considering a fireplace, media center, and bookshelf all in one!
Know more about Modern Electric Fireplace .
In almost every culture within Western Civilization, it is considered right and proper that one sends a thank you notes after receiving a gift. These notes should be handwritten and should be sent in a timely manner. By “timely”, most experts agree that the note thanking a giver for a gift should be done within three weeks of having received the gift. Exception to this “three week” rule is usually given to new brides and grooms, because newly married couples often spend a week or more honeymooning after their nuptials.
Thank you notes are a relatively simple concept. The idea is to express appreciation for a thoughtful act, expression, or gift. They don’t have to be long, but most experts agree that they should not be electronic. Even in today’s “connected” world, there is something to be said about a tangible envelope that is sent by postal mail. An envelope that comes in the mail that is not an advertisement or a bill is a rarity. When a person takes the time to get out the stationary and personally write out a note thanking someone for a gift, it shows a type of caring that is not evident in an electronic piece of mail that can be written and sent within minutes. A tangible thank you note is also permanent; it can be held and read over and over and even shown to others.
Thank you notes are so important that it is not only women and etiquette experts that make use of them. It has been said that when he was campaigning, President George H.W. Bush (George W’s father) carried a box of cards with him on the campaign trail everywhere he went and wrote a note immediately after each event to the volunteers or hosts.
When writing out a thank you note, it is important to make mention of the gift received or the reason the note is being given. Don’t say “thanks for the lovely gift”. Say, instead “thank you for the beautiful necklace. It goes very well with a pair of earrings I bought last year.” Discuss how you plan on using the gift and tell the person a little bit about what it means to your relationship with them. Allude to the future. You might say something like “I am so glad you were able to come to my Christmas Party. I hope our kids can get together for ice skating in January.”
Another time that it is appropriate to write a thank you note is after a prospective employee has a job interview. It has been said that it is important to get that note written and sent by return mail. The prospective employee thanks the interviewer for taking time to speak with him or her and re-establishing why he or she would be a good fit for the job. Surveys have shown that thank you cards have often given prospective employees a keen edge over other interviewees when the decision of which person to hire is made.
Thank you notes are an important aspect of culture in the Western Hemisphere, and it is vital that each person know when and how to send them.
Restoring Antique Desk – slant top around 1890
You want to restore an antique desk? Here’s how I restored this antique slant top desk.
Perhaps you are restoring your own antiques and can find some good ideas by following this. If you have questions, I am only too happy to be of help.
A very sad and unhappy desk
Here we have in for restoration a Slant Top Writing Desk.
Veneer – Walnut
Ground wood – Pine
It is an unusually small desk of its type. You don’t find them very often, even the big ones have become rare. They went out of fashion of course the moment people found a computer would not quite fit. Now with notebooks, I am a little lost as to why they haven’t come back in. Such a desk is a practical piece of furniture for a small house or flat with all that storage space.
Where do we start?
Lets have a look and see what needs doing
The finish is patchy and very dirty.
Some of the tools I used for this project:
The Small Drawers
Make two new drawers.
Have taken all the fittings and locks off. Decided to start with the small drawers. Must be careful to make them the same as the others. Found some old wood in my stockpile the right width, cut to size and from then on its all by hand.
The front of one missing was there, so made sides back and bottom. The other is made and veneer put on. Decided to put another veneer on – was not happy with first choice.
Have re-glued bubbles in others and where needed sides re-glued.
Removed old polish with alcohol. Old polish was totally destroyed by sun. – Yellow and flaky. Sanded and stained a little to bring life back in to the veneer.
Then they can all be polished.
Sorting the runners out.
Have removed all locks and escutcheons.
The runners on the big drawers have become very uneven over the years, making the drawers very difficult to open and close.
Rather than taking the drawers to pieces I run the router along the bottoms, taking off the bare minimum and then cut new strips to size and glue them on. I can plane them back to get a nice even fit.
The drawer fronts I have cleaned with alcohol – leaving most of the polish on them as we want to keep the patina. Depending on how the flap comes out I can tone the polish to get an even color overall.
Next we start on the carcass
Fill cracks, clean, polish.
The cracks in the sides need filling otherwise they will get bigger as the wood dries out, not forgetting the damage to the veneer.
First we clean the dust and debris out of the cracks. Find various left over pieces of veneer of varying thickness which can be used to fill the crack.
Make a fresh batch of animal glue and cut the strips of veneer to the right length. I will be putting them in horizontally all the way down so that the shrinkage is less. My little Japanese Hammer which I use with my chisels is also very useful for hammering the wood into the cracks.
A messy job with the glue and a long one as the small pieces of veneer have to be pushed up against one another.
Job completed – must be left to dry overnight before I can go over with the chisel to even them up.
The bubbles must be cut through with a scalpel in most cases so that I can inject some animal glue into far recesses. I can spread the glue around with a veneer hammer and then rub it a little to get some warmth in – cover with tinfoil or plastic and weight down.
Lift veneer up remove bubbles and replace missing piece
Veneer on top is very thin and fragile.
Must lift up quite a big chunk, so I can clean the ground wood and get the bubbles out. To do this I lay a damp cloth over and use an iron on lowest setting to melt the old animal glue. Using a knife to lift the veneer up, letting the air in so it doesn’t re-glue itself.
This is slow going as the veneer in places is very fragile and will tear easily. Slow is also necessary as the veneer can also stretch which makes laying it back very tricky.
Can only reglue bit by bit so I can get it relatively flat. Have put two new slices of veneer in to replace what was missing. Luckily I had some old veneer from an old drawer there that I could use. Have put this in leaving the polish on – saves a lot of coloring work afterwards.
Must wait a few days for the animal glue to harden before I can clean the old polish off and sand down a bit. Here one must be careful as the friction causes heat, which in turn loosens the animal glue and then the bubbles are back again.
So having removed old polish and sanded lightly I can stain and re polish. Has turned out well and the new pieces of veneer are barely noticeable.
The flap, the small drawers and the turnings
Light at the end of the tunnel?
First the crack. Again I have put the wood in horizontally using old thick veneer. Cut off the excess the next day.
Managed to get the back of the flap fairly flat – needed quite a bit of a plane and sand.
Found some new straight grained walnut veneer in my stock. Not very wide so used four pieces book matched. Cut to size and laid on one at a time using my veneer press. Animal glue is used for this as well. Have to work fast on such a big piece but works well and I can place the next piece slightly overlapped to allow for shrinkage.
Here again we must leave for some days for the glue to harden before we can sand. Meanwhile I can add veneer to the sides and replace missing pieces on the top side where the lock fits.
Sand the veneer very fine and then we start with the polishing process. First the grain has to be filled. Have painted on a couple of coats of fairly dark french polish, so the pores take on an old look. Sand off the excess polish and then start the process of filling the grain using powder. This is a long process but the more the pores are filled the better the end result. As we don’t want a perfect mirror finish we can leave a little open grain. Then the proper polishing starts. Using a little oil I can put as many coats on as I like. I have put a bit of spirit color in the polish to get a similar finish to the rest of the desk.
Now the flap must stay put for a week or so before I can turn it over and start on the outside.
In the meantime I have polished the drawer fronts and they are now ready for the little porcelain knobs to be put back on. Found we were missing one so must order. Luckily they are still available.
One side turning was missing. Found various old turnings from backs of chairs etc in my storage. Cut these through the middle and using parts of the original, now have two the same. Have glued together colored and polished. They are now on the desk and look very much like the original.
The front side on the flap must be cleaned and sanded. The veneer in places was sanded through with whatever machine was used. If I put new pieces in, I shall have to cut away quite a lot of the veneer that is there – due to the thickness. learn : how to sand the wood perfectly .
Have decided to leave as is and get my water colors out. I can mix the colors and paint on the grain where needed putting a coat of polish over. Have to do this in layers. Must make sure that the front of the desk is all the same color. The moldings for the flap need cleaning and a bit of a polish before being put back on again.
I have put in a shelf for the middle drawer adding a freeze to the front as it would originally have had. This is now colored in and polished.
The Home Run
Am still fiddling with the front of the flap, but its getting there. Drawers are all finished and just need the escutcheons putting on.
Ended up doing the middle piece of the flap three times before I was happy!!
All locks and escutcheons back on.
Had to put bigger hinges on the flap in the end as the old ones just were not stable enough. Added a strip at bottom of flap so it would lie flat when open and not pull the screws out with the weight. Its the bits like this that take so much time.
Re-aligned the side runners inside the desk so the drawers now run smoothly.
One can still see the sanding marks at the front where it was attacked with a heavy machine. The veneer was already very thin so I couldn’t sand very much- where the veneer was gone I used water color to paint in the grain. Anyway, all with pleasing results I think.
So there we have it – ready for delivery ……. and then its on to the next project!
End result pretty good considering!
Restoration Questions and Comments
Feel free to ask advice -shall give where I can.
Sometimes I get pulled in to do talks on antique furniture or restoration. I enjoy doing this (once I am there!) as every time is different; the subjects are different and the questions are different. Its just the fun of sharing information with interested people.
If you have ideas as to how I can improve my lens, I would really appreciate it.
Questions? Ask -costs nothing -and I shall help where I can….